True Access panels have changed the wood ceiling industry for the better. Gone are the days where ceilings are damaged by tenants or facilities forcing access where there is none. Each True Access panel is independently accessible. A single person can pull any panel down, hang it by the hinge, and return it to perfect condition after completing their work in the plenum space. The ceiling reveals are protected and so are the tenants who occupy the building.
With more and more True Access installations, contractors and designers have both begun to push the boundaries of where and how this product is installed. This guide is meant to help those contractors properly field cut, repair and install both the 1800 True Access Grille and the 2800 True Access Linear. This guide borrows from other videos and guides from 9Wood as many of the same steps are transferrable across products.
If you still want to learn more after reading this guide, head on over to 9Wood’s Learning Center for “How-to” videos on making cut, applying edge/end banding, and minor repairs. These videos show alteration to 1100 cross piece grilles; however, root processes and procedures still apply with the addition of the True Access hardware. In addition, there are many helpful links throughout this article to help you build the skills to install a great wood ceiling product.
Using This Guide
This field-cutting guide will demonstrate methods for making field cuts on the 1800 True Access Grille and the 2800 True Access Linear. Additional backers and clip placement jigs (Figures 24-29) will be supplied for use by 9Wood. Please note that the panels used in the demonstration will differ slightly from the panels received for this project.
In this Guide:
Tools we Recommend for Field Cutting
- Handheld circular saw with fine-toothed crosscut blade or with 65-80 tooth carbide tipped blade
- e.g. Diablo D0760A
- Fine toothed hand saw
- Recommended for special conditions involving partial cuts acts the panel.
- Jig saw with fine-toothed blade.
- Recommended for cutting curves.
- Coping saw
- Recommended for cutting curves.
- Sliding miter saw with a fence.
- Caution of tear out if cutting face side down
- Radial arm saw with 65-80 tooth carbide tipped blade.
- e.g. Diablo D1080X
- Caution of tear out if cutting face side down
Setup, Preparation and Tips
We recommend choosing a safe, sturdy work surface to perform your field cuts. Safety above all else, making field cuts to panels already installed to the T-Bar is never recommended. To prepare your material, all cut locations on panels should be tightly wrapped in masking tape to limit any tear out damage that may occur (See Figures 10-13)
Tips:
- Find a safe location where you will be able to conduct the cuts uninhibited. We do not recommend making cuts on the floor and the area should be cleared of any debris that can cause damage to the product or your crew.
- To limit hardware removal, most cuts will need to be made with panel face down. Protecting the face of the panel is crucial. Seek out soft items such as cardboard and packing that can be used as padding to protect the face of the material. Often, this material can be found in the crates in which the product was received.
- Remember to keep your tools laid out and organized.
- Take your time measuring and marking your cut.
Field End Cuts
Perimeter panels may require field end cutting across the width to fit within the space (See Figures 1 & 2 for examples). To retain accessibility, however, hardware may need to be removed and replaced on supplemental or alternate backers such as the alignment clips. (See Figures 7 – 31 for more detail)
Some situations may result in the panel becoming too small for hardware to function well. In these situations, blocking may need to be used in lieu of suspension hardware, notably the True Access Clips. (See Figure 5 & Figure 6) Note: Blocking a panel will render it inaccessible. 9Wood will supply clip jigs to re-attach suspension and alignment hardware, if required. (See Figures 24-29)
Field Ripping
Perimeter panel(s) may require field ripping (cutting along length) to fit within the space (See Figures 3 & 4 for examples). To retain accessibility, hardware needs to be removed and replaced on cut suspension and alignment backers. Supplemental Mains will be required for attachment and support. Replaced hardware must align with the edge of the main runner.
Some situations may result in the panel becoming too small for hardware to function well. In these situations, blocking may need to be used in lieu of suspension hardware, notably the True Access Clips. (See Figure 5 & Figure 6) Note: Blocking a panel will render it inaccessible. 9Wood will supply clip jigs to re-attach suspension and alignment hardware., if required. (See Figures 24-29)
Modifying Spring Hostler Bracket
When reapplying hardware, the Suspension Clip must align with the Spring Holster Bracket. Some conditions may require the Spring Holster Brackets to be modified (Figure 5) . This can happen along the perimeter or at MEP Devices, due to interference. Extra spring holster brackets can be provided if required. Please reach out to your 9Wood Project Manager if further guidance is needed.
Blocking
In some instances, the panel may be too small, or the field condition due to features or fixtures may not allow for the use of 9Wood’s True Access hardware; instead, blocking (provided by the installer) should be used. See Page 7 Alternate and Penetration Cuts for more information.
Panels being directly attached will require the removal of hardware and the blocking will need to be sized to ensure a match of system depth. Please note that this will render the panel with blocking inaccessible (Figure 6). Please reach out to your 9Wood Project Manager if further guidance is needed.
Removing Hardware and Backers, & Making the Cut
1. Before any Cuts are made, remove any Hardware and or backers that will interfere with making the cut. The Suspension and Alignment clips are attached using #8 hex head sharp point sheet metal screws. (Figure 7)
2. Suspension backers are attached using 1-5/8” drywall screws and ¼” crown x 1-1/4” long staples.
Alignment backers are attached with ¼” crown x 1-1/4” long staples. (Figure 8)
3. Please use care when removing the suspension backer and alignment backer to mitigate damage to the panel members. (Figure 9) Backer removal will most likely be required for end cuts (square and angled). Backer removal may not be required for field ripping.
4. Apply tape around each member where you will be making your cut. This will help to prevent blow out during the field cut. Add a strip of tape to mark your cut line to ensure accuracy. (Figures 10 & 11 for Square Cure, Figures 12 & 13 for Angled Cut)
5. Make your cut. Then touch-up, stain, finish/seal, and or end band (if veneer, see QR code) to any cut surface. (Figures 14 & 15) This includes blacking out end of cut backers. (Figure 16)
Repair Tips for touch-ups, scratches, and finishes
Link: Check out all our Field Guide videos here.
Reattaching Backers and Replacing Hardware
6. As stated, alignment is critical for functional accessibility. Please take measurements and use an edge reference when reattaching the supplementary end suspension backer. Match the overhang of end suspension backers and ends of members on the opposite side of the panel. (Figures 17 &18) Square/align the ends of backers with factory-attached backers. (Figures 19 & 20). Extra backers and long backers can be provided if required.
7. Use staples to hold the backer in place. (Figures 21 & 22) Pre-drilling before you install the screws is critical to keeping the members from splitting. (Figure 23)
Suspension Hardware Clip Jig – Single edge reference
8. As alignment is critical for functional accessibility, hardware must be square to the T-bar when reattached. 9Wood provides Jigs for assisting in the reattachment of suspension hardware. (Figures 24-26) We recommend starting with low torque and increasing as necessary when driving the hex head screws to prevent stripping. Inspect your hardware and confirm your measurements before installation.
Suspension Hardware Clip Jig – Single edge reference
Alignment hardware Clip Jig – Single edge reference
Additional Notes for Attaching True Access Suspension and Alignment Hardware
When using the clip jig, measure and match the placement of hardware so it will align with the holster bracket. (Figure 30) Verify that placement will not interfere with the T-bar against the alignment clip (Figure 31.) Some hardware shifting might be required.
Alignment Clip Reattachment
For a panel to maintain alignment, 2 alignment clips are required per side. If applicable: Move side alignment clips to an alternate alignment backer. Use the alignment clip jig provided to ensure proper inset of clip and alignment of panel. (Figures 32 & 33)
Alternate Cuts
Field Cutting at Corners: Field cutting conditions that fall at a corner may require both crosscutting and ripping individual members within a panel. This may also require finishing an inside corner cut within a single linear member. It is recommended that the layout on the finished face be scribed with a sharp utility knife before the final cuts are made with a fine-tooth finish saw.
Field Cutting Curves or Cut that requires small cantilever: Create a template of the curved condition by measuring from a known reference line (suspension grid member, string line, etc.) to the curved perimeter edge. Transfer the layout to the panel(s) affected. Using a jig saw with a fine-tooth blade or coping saw is recommended. An end suspension backer (straight or angled) must be placed within 4” of the end of the panel and allow for alignment clips to interact with the T-bar to maintain alignment (see Figure 31). If the cut results in hardware not allowed to be replaced, blocking should be used instead, and the panel will become inaccessible (see page 4).
Penetration Cuts
Any cuts that disrupt the suspension layout across a panel and/or panel support require the use of blocking (see page 4) in lieu of hardware replacement. This could include penetration cuts through or near hardware or partial perimeter cuts for conditions such as around columns, other structures or fixture such as lights, resulting in the panel becoming L- ,C-, U- or H-shaped. This will render the panel inaccessible.
For penetration cuts, please use the steps and examples above in combination with videos found at the 9wood learning center (QR code directly to videos below.)
Scrim Backing
If your project does have scrim or any other fabric on the back, we recommend that you flip the panel over, and then razor knife, pull back and tape scrim out of the way prior to cutting the panel. We do not recommend that you try to process the panel with the scrim intact on the back because it will likely bind or fray in the saw while you’re trying to cut it, and it’s highly likely that the scrim will not be cut in the right location. After the panel has been cut, lay out the scrim, measure and cut using scissors or knife to the appropriate length, maintaining any overhang required at reveals. For a clean edge (to avoid fraying) a straight edge is recommended for use with a utility.
Last Word
We have an entire team to help you with any wood ceiling installation challenges you might have. Reach out to us directly for any additional support.
If you install wood ceilings, we respect you. Have a great day!